After reading this You will understand, why we've became "addicted" to surf.
While surfing, we experience elevated levels of Adrenalin and Dopamine. Adrenaline raises your heart rate and increases your reaction time, while Dopamine is a chemical neurotransmitter triggered in your body when you are doing something you like. “Adrenaline junkies” – such as big wave surfers – get used to higher levels of these chemicals. While this adrenalin rush may give us an edge in the water the effects subside quickly once ashore, while surf-stoke remains long after we’re back on the beach.
Scientific research shows that the turbulence created by breaking waves alters the physical structure of the air and water, breaking apart water and air molecules and releasing charged ions into the atmosphere. On their eternal quest for perfect waves surfers inevitably encounter this altered atmospheric state. Some scientists are convinced this abundance of negative ions has a positive effect on mood by triggering the release of endorphins and serotonin – the “happy hormones” – and increasing blood flow and oxygen circulation through our bodies. Similar studies show other environments with negatively charged atmospheric conditions, such as around waterfalls and on snowy mountains, produce similar effects.
A study of 107 surfers in California investigated the mental health benefits of surfing by asking surfers to describe how they felt before and after a surf. Surfers reported feeling calmer and more tranquil afterwards. Scientists think that the reason of this calmness and positive mood after surf is that this altered atmosphere of the breaking wave affects our body. Here is the reason why many organizations around the world have tapped into this surfing “zen” to treat afflictions such as depression, schizophrenia, seasonal affective disorder (a type of winter depression) and post-traumatic stress disorder.